Cat Mortality in Shelters

Murray, J. K., E. Skillings, et al. (2008). "A study of risk factors for cat mortality in adoption centres of a UK cat charity." Journal of Feline Medicine & Surgery 10(4): 338-345.


In the United Kingdom, there are many animal charities that shelter and re-home cats. Cats Protection, the largest cat-only animal charity in the UK, re-homed about 60,000 cats in 2005. Risk factors for mortality in UK shelters have not been previously studied, and may be applicable to similar animal shelter situations elsewhere in the world. A case-control study was used to examine variables associated with mortality. Retrospective data was collected for 194 cases and 320 control cats. An increased risk of mortality was discovered for cats admitted to shelters unneutered, in fair or poor health, and for cats born at shelters. Kittens under 7 weeks of age and cats over 7 years of age had an increased risk of mortality compared to other age groups. Cats with disabilities also had an increased risk of mortality. Knowledge of risk factors contributing to mortality in shelters can help focus intervention strategies aimed at reducing risk.
>> PubMed Abstract

Related articles:
Cave, T., H. Thompson, et al. (2002). "Kitten mortality in the United Kingdom: a retrospective analysis of 274 histopathological examinations (1986 to 2000)." Vet Rec 151: 497-501.
>> PubMed Abstract

Bannasch, M. and J. Foley (2005). "Epidemiologic evaluation of multiple respiratory pathogens in cats in animal shelters." J Fel Med Surg 7(2): 109-119.
>> PubMed Abstract

More on cat health: Winn Feline Foundation Library

I have a 14 month old cat. I live in an apartment in New York City. Every once in a while…

I am very cautious about using any chemicals in my house with my cats. Boric acid has been used as a relatively non-toxic insecticide and this may be an option to look into. I am unsure of its effectiveness with water bugs but people do use it with ant and cockroach infestations. With any product you use, follow directions carefully and limit your cat's contact with the product.

My 2 year old female indoor cat had her yearly vaccinations done last year. The…

This is a great question. My first recommendation for you is to talk to your veterinarian. He or she is likely a better informed source than your friend, even if she's had cats all her life, etc. If you don't feel you can talk to your veterinarian about this, then I would consider finding a new veterinarian. I also like to stress that regardless of what vaccines your cat needs, she should still have a yearly physical exam. This exam is just as important as the vaccine as it helps ensure your cat is healthy and can catch disease early.

Vaccinations can be very confusing and the recommendations often change. I try to decide on what vaccinations and how often they are needed based on the cat's age, lifestyle and general health. I also tend to look toward the American Association of Feline Practitioners vaccination guidelines for reference.

Let's talk a little more in detail about the vaccines.

The rabies vaccine is considered a core vaccine and should be done in all cats, indoors and out. How often the rabies vaccine is done can vary dependent on state or local laws, and the type of vaccine used. While it may be unlikely that an indoor cat would come in contact with a rabies carrying animal like a bat, raccoon or skunk, the vaccine protects against this off chance. I have had multiple clients where a bat has gotten in the house and been killed by the cat (if this ever happens do not throw way the bat..minimize your contact with it and call your local health official immediately). Just a couple weeks ago I also had a client whose cat was bitten by a raccoon when it broke in through a screen on her porch and attacked her cat. Rabies is a fatal disease and can not be diagnosed in a live animal. The rabies vaccine is also recommended for your legal protection..in some areas it is the law to vaccinate your cat for rabies. Also to consider, if your cat was to bite someone and they did not handle the situation well, your cat may need to be quarantined for a significant amount of time or they could ask/demand you euthanize your cat to be tested for rabies. I think of the rabies like insurance. Certain rabies vaccines now have very few side effects and most are considered very safe in our cats.

The distemper vaccine is also considered a core vaccine and is done as a series during kittenhood, a single vaccine is given one year later and in general this vaccine is then given every three years. This virus protects against multiple serious viruses your cat can contract. If your cat did not have her distemper vaccine last year, I would suspect your cat is already on a three year protocol for this shot.

The leukemia vaccine is considered a non-core vaccine and is usually recommended for kittens or for adult cats that are at higher risk of the disease, ie..generally outdoor cats that may have contact with other cats. This does not sound like your cat, but your veterinarian can help you determine what is best.

With all this said, I feel vaccines are important but should be chosen carefully for each cat. Side effects and reactions can occur but tend to be infrequent..about 1:100 for systemic effects and even less likely for serious side effects like a mass at the injection site.

Hope this helps. I hope your cat stays in good health as well.

Now that summer is here my kitten (female) likes to spend a lot of time in the bathroom…

Cats and kittens will naturally seek out cool spots if they are too warm. Often they will lay on hard cool surfaces and many spend their time on the floor rather than up high where it is warmer. The best thing to do is prevent your cat from being exposed to high temperatures. Use fans or air-conditioning if indicated. A bath is not necessary and I usually do not recommend unless there is an underlying reason (like your cat rolled in an oil puddle). A bath would only give your cat a very short term cooling effect and tends to be stressful for many cats.

My cat, Farley, is about 7 years old. I adopted him from a shelter. He has a problem with…

Many cats will regurgitate their food if they eat too quickly. If it is truly regurgitation, the food will often be undigested and it will return up very quickly after the cat eats. The regurgitation can sometimes be improved by modifying how your cat eats. You can put your food on a cookie sheet or pie plate so it lies in a thin dispersed single layer. This forces your cat to eat a piece at a time. Also helpful, is trying to feed your cat out of a large dog bowl that has ping pong balls/golf balls in it; this causes your cat to eat around the balls and slows him down. These things may not completely stop the problem but they may help decrease the frequency.

It sounds like you've already done a lot of testing. If you and your veterinarian feel this really has an underlying medical reason, you could consider having an x-ray done with contrast, like barium, that gives a good outline of the G.I. system. A CT scan or MRI could also be helpful.

I have a 3 year old neutered male cat that attacks his tail as if it belongs to someone…

I am sorry to hear that you are having issues with your cat. Without seeing your male, it's hard to be able to know for sure what to suggest. Your veterinarian is in the best situation to offer suggestions on your cat's treatment, but you could talk to him or her about using a behavioral medication like Clomipramine (it works differently than Elavil and has been used in some cats with success). In other cases, tail biting can be pain related even if x-rays are clear. Often tracing back these cats may have had a tail injury in their past. Some of these cats may get relief from pain medication like Tramadol or Gabapentin. You could also consider consulting with a veterinary behaviorist to see if they can help. Good luck and hope you can get this under control with your cat.

I have run into financial difficulties and may have to switch from Purina One Healthy…

Purina O.N.E. brand cat food - Kitten Formula and Purina Kitten Chow brand kitten food are different brands, and as such, they have different formulas. Both are excellent products, in that they provide complete and balanced nutrition for your growing kitten. Both products contain no added artificial color, and are preserved with a natural Vitamin E from vegetable oils. In addition, both products utilize Ulti-Pro, our enhanced protein system, so you have the confidence that your kitten is receiving all of the protein he needs for growth and to build strong muscles.

Purina O.N.E. Kitten Formula is different, in that it is made with real meat as the first ingredient. It also has slightly higher fat levels, which provide energy and help your kitten have healthy skin and a shiny coat. While the fat levels are not quite as high in Kitten Chow, these slightly lower fat levels may be helpful in keeping your kitten at an appropriate weight, if your kitten has a tendency to overeat.

Your kittens would do well on either product. Therefore, when it comes to making the decision regarding which product to feed, it may be important to consider which product your kitten appears to enjoy more. In addition, you need to select a product that fits within your budgetary constraints. Whichever product you choose, be sure to stick with that particular product, rather than switching off between the two. Rapid diet changes may cause gastro-intestinal upset in your kitten.

I have two cats, the female named Destiney and the male named Habib. When I call him he…

Cats respond differently. Some learn quickly that their names mean good things for them. Habib obviously has learned that his name means he’ll get attention if he comes to you when he hears the name. Destiney may not be quite as touchy-feely and may prefer to ask for attention on her own terms. You could experiment with other names and see if something else appeals to her more—or if she likes treats or a particular toy, start associating her name with that. In other words, have the feather toy in your hand before calling her name, and reward her with a game of chase-the-toy.

I have four wonderful, but very different cats. They are a seven-year-old smallish female…

It’s very difficult to know what to advise in such situations, because the four cats have relationships with each other that I can’t know. While I’m sure it appears that #2 acts up without cause, something does provoke the display. It might be a smell, or a stare from across the room, but it gets the kitty’s back up. It seems telling that the two cats having problems also are the oldest pair, and probably arguing over who should be “top cat.”

Cats can develop a dislike for each other that eventually becomes habit. Something may have set them off the first time, but thereafter the repeated altercations have become an automatic knee-jerk response to each other. The older cat may even have begun behaving in a way that invites attacks—sort of like having a “kick me” sign taped to her back.

For the two cats to have any chance to tolerate each other, I’d strongly advise that you treat them as if they are strangers, and introduce them all over again. This process can take weeks or even months. Usually I suggest that the picked-on cat be allowed the run of the house while isolating the bully cat in a single room. The closed door cuts off the sight of each other that can dial up the arousal level in these cats—they can still smell and hear each other. Feed the cats on opposite sides of the door so they start to associate each others’ presence with good things.

Leave the door closed for a minimum of two weeks, and gage progress by if the aggressive cat’s hisses have faded when she senses the other cat. Only then, replace the closed door with a baby gate—that still keeps them separate but allows them to see each other. Depending on the floor plan of your home, you may wish to use a baby gate to simply divide the house into two parts, so the cats don’t have to interact. Create more vertical space (cat trees, perches) so there’s more territory for each to own.

More step-by-step suggestions for reintroduction can be found in the book PETiQuette. Some cats simply never will get along, and must live apart in the same house—or be re-homed. You also can consult with your veterinarian about behavior medications that may help with the re-learning process. Good luck!

We have a two-year-old Maine Coon cat. When we first got her, she was very shy and it…

I can understand your concern, and of course the safety of your grandson is paramount. However, based on your description of the cat’s behavior, her reaction is quite normal, and here’s why. Although to you and me, the toddler seems harmless, your cat instead sees a monster that looks, smells and sounds scary and not like a loving human at all. How tall is your cat? To her, people are giants. She knows and trusts you and your husband because you’ve petted and loved on her and now smells like she does (a very comforting and safe signal for cats). Grandchildren that visit only once in a while don’t give cats the time to recognize they’re harmless—and when frightened, cats have two choices: fight or flight. Hisses, growls and swats are the cat’s way to tell scary things to keep a distance.

Here’s what I suggest. Until your younger grandson reaches an age where he understands not to chase the kitty, keep the cat in a separate room during visits. That protects the toddler, and calms down the cat, preventing potential problems. Because the more the cat “practices” being upset, the greater the chance she’ll never learn to accept being around children.

For the older grandchild, explain why the cat hisses and acts grumpy. Perhaps your grandson has a relative who swoops down at him and pinches his cheek and makes him feel odd…that’s how he makes the cat feel. Instead, if he wants to interact with the cat, make it a “no touch/no chase” rule. He should sit on the floor with a long-distance fishing pole style toy and allow the cat to come to him if she wants, but NEVER force this. Remember, it’s the cat’s house too and she has a right to not be pestered. When she feels safe and respected, and able to stay out of toddler reach, her attitude may calm down.